Eating | Sleeping | Getting around | Top things to do
With China's rail lines and bus system, it's easy to get around without buying a plane ticket–if you have the time. China's a huge country and certain trips can take up to several days, depending on how remote they are, or how large of a mountain range is between points A and B.
Traveling by train
Purchasing train tickets can be tricky if you go it on your own at a train station in a location off the beaten path, where little English is spoken (our book will help you with that, though). If you happen to be staying in a hotel that can make arrangements for you, it might be the path of least resistance. If you detest paying fees for the help, and like the DIY approach, look for special ticket counters for Westerners, although they aren't found in all cities. Our book has the necessary information for arranging a train ticket on your own at the station–have your desired travel date written down and a map to indicate where you're trying to go. It doesn't hurt to have a few 'backup' dates or destinations if you have the flexibility; your first option isn't always available.
When buying overnight train tickets, know that 'soft sleeper' will get you a comfortable 4-person compartment, with plenty of storage space and privacy (there's a door that closes and even locks). For less money, you can go with a 'hard sleeper', which means you'll be sleeping in 1 of 6 bunks in a compartment with less privacy and storage space–a curtain replaces the door of a 'soft sleeper' compartment and in the morning, it's not uncommon to wake to the smell of cigarette smoke as the car's inhabitants wake and light up in the train's hallways. It's more difficult to get a good night's rest here, but a little more affordable for the budget conscious.
Most overnight trains have a dining car–and this is where having a Me No Speak book comes in handy–the trains we traveled on never had an English-speaking staff or English menu in the dining car. It's not a bad idea to load up on eats and drinks at concession stands in the train station before boarding; no matter where you are in China, there will always be a thermos of hot water for tea or instant noodles, including the trains.
Other train options include soft seat and hard seat. The names are actually pretty descriptive of the level of comfort you're paying for, so for a trip of any length, avoid getting a hard seat.
Traveling by bus
Depending on your route, busses are an easy way to travel in China. There's a huge range in the quality of the bus you might find yourself on, so be prepared for long, cramped trips with little comfort–it's difficult to know what you're in store for ahead of time. Some 'sleeper' busses offer reclining seats that literally allow you to stretch out. Long distance busses departing from popular tourist locales are often fairly comfortable–book through travel agencies or book through your hotel.
Local busses can be anything from a mini-van to something more similar to what you'll find in any Western city. There's a wave of domestic travel in China, and inter-city busses may or may not include a 'tour' complete with Chinese tour guide with bullhorn. In any event, the best way to go by bus is to consult a travel guide book for bus information, show up at the station, and keep repeating the name of the place you wish to go; eventually, someone will get you to the right counter, the right departure gate, on the right bus, and you'll be on your way.
A few tips for traveling by bus: keep your things off the floor to avoid spit; if you don't have an assigned seat (often, you do), sit near an open window because most Chinese travelers ignore the 'no smoking' signage; most long distance busses stop every several hours for bathroom and food breaks. |
